A Short History of the Diamond A on Sonoma Mountain

By Helen Bates
September 2008 SMP Newsletter

The largest subdivision on Sonoma Mountain is known as "Diamond A," a rural residential community accessed via Grove Street on the SE slope of the mountain. How did this 1,200 acres transition from Miwok hunting grounds to a subdivision of 240 parcels during the past 2 centuries? Who were the central characters in this history? Was there any public oversight of the subdivision process, or was it driven purely by private financial interests? Could it happen again in the 21st century?

In 1769, when the Miwok Indians of the Sonoma Coast first came in contact with Europeans, they numbered about 1500 and their hunting grounds included all of Sonoma Mountain. By 1930 the Miwok numbered about 500, and the mountain had been divided into parcels, and passed through various owners. The coyotes that the Miwok believed to be their ancestor and creator god still prowl the mountain and howl near the ridgeline at night, ignoring the artificial boundaries that have been placed on the land.

From 1834 to 1857 the southern portion of Sonoma Mountain from the Petaluma River to Sonoma Creek was part of "Rancho Petaluma", a land grant to General Mariano Vallejo. By 1866, when the "Rowe" survey was recorded, the 66,000 acres had been split into many parcels – some sold by General Vallejo, others taken by Anglo squatters.

The 1897 Illustrated Atlas (see next map) shows the unmistakable shape of what was to become the Diamond A Ranch, labeled "Henry A. Hardin 1240 acres". Henry Andrew Hardin was born in Kentucky in 1833, joined an oxteam train setting out from Missouri in 1852, and came to Sonoma County. He bought and sold various parcels before buying the 1,240-acre ranch in 1877 from Edward Halloran, which he owned until his death in 1920. After his death three of his daughters sold the ranch to the Felder family in 1934.

The Felder family owned the ranch briefly and then sold it to the Berrien Anderson family in 1938. In 1961 Anderson sold the ranch for $400,000 to developers Thomas Burke & Jack Fisher.

In 1965 the "Preliminary Master Plan" for the Diamond A Ranch Estates divided 1,220 acres into 482 home sites of 1.5 to 2.5 acres each, leaving extensive recreation areas along Carriger Creek and on the steep wooded slopes. According to Dave Garlick, son of Robert Garlick, the original broker, the plan called for a multiphase development. Phase One included excavation and construction of the main road using a new design concept of a straight steep approach to replace the old twisting onelane road. Phases One & Two went well - lots typically sold for $6,000 - $8,000 and offered buyers magnificent views, beautiful hillsides of Live Oak, White Oak and Pepperwood, and spring displays of lupine and poppies turning the fields purple and orange. Robert Garlick, was featured on San Francisco radio inviting people to meet "Trail Boss Bob" and tour the ranch in a Rolls Royce Jeep.

In the late 1960’s disaster hit as winter rains caused a landslide from a lot that had been extensively graded without permits, damaging the road below. Red flags went up at the County, a moratorium on future building was put in place, and geological and landslide studies were required. The studies indicated that 27 lots were in the high-risk category, 65 in low-risk, and 95 in intermediate and the County tightened foundation requirements. This process took a couple of years and the developers lost the ranch through foreclosure. Garlick is quoted as saying that the remaining acres were sold to the highest bidder on the steps of the County Courthouse. These acres were ultimately developed as larger lots ranging from 10 to 40 acres.

In 1999 a count showed a total of 240 parcels on the 1220-acre ranch, approximately half of the 482 parcels in the 1965 Preliminary Master Plan. These parcels are divided into 3 developments: Diamond A Ranch Estates (1962-1966) 190 parcels, Diamond A Ranches (1976) 16 parcels, and the balance in 34 parcels.

From this history it seems that there was little planning or oversight by the County until Mother Nature intervened in the form of a landslide. As a result of these interventions the original developers lost the land, and Sonoma Mountain was spared from a much denser development on its eastern flank.

Could a subdivision like Diamond A happen again? Probably not. Sonoma Mountain Preservation helped enact Guidelines for Development in 1998 that are closely monitored by the County and SMP. As for Mother Nature, she can still disrupt the slopes of Sonoma Mountain to foil the plans of all of us!

Research of historical data by John Barinaga, Marilyn Goode, Beverly Perrin and Jack Nisson from the following sources: